Sewing Dictionary

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Apex - The point of the bust.  The very tip of a dart.

Applique - A small piece of fabric or design, cut into a shape, then placed on a background fabric and stitched down with small almost invisible stitches.  This is usually done by hand.

B

Baby hem - a seam finish or hem when the fabric is double turned  ¹/₈ inch to ¹/₄ inch maximum.  The fabric is turned in very small amounts.

Backstitching -  Stitching front and then back to reinforce each stitch.  This method provides a sturdy but elastic seam.

Backstitch -  (Machine)A stitch taken backward from the direction you were sewing from.  This will reinforce the beginning and the end of  your seam.  A sewing machine has a button or switch that activates the reverse 
stitch.  By backstitching a few stitches, you will secure the beginning and end of your stitch so it does not 
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Baste - To temporarily pin together or sew together with long stitches.              

Beeswax -  Beeswax can be used to stiffen thread to prevent tangling and knotting in hand sewing.

Bias - A line going diagonally across the grain of fabric.

Bias Tape - Prepackaged tape that comes in many different colors and sizes and is used to bind seams or hems.

Blanket stitch -   Used to neaten the edge of a buttonhole, blanket, vest edge, or other seam line. A blanket  stitch can be done by hand or machine 

Blindhem - A hem that does not show on the right side of the fabric.

Bodkin - A bodkin can be used for threading elastic, ribbon or cord through casings and eyelets. Bodkins are usually long and blunt with a large narrow slot eye.  Some have gripping prongs in which the elastic, ribbon or cord is threaded.

Bolt - A large roll of fabric of a specific width.

Buttonhole -  A  slit in the fabric to allow the passage of a button for closure. Buttonholes are mostly made by machine, but can still be made by hand using a  special buttonhole stitch.      

C

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Casing -  A Fabric "fold over" for encasing elastic, a drawstring etc..  This is usually used on a waistline, hem or a cuff. Elastic waist slacks or sweat pants are an example of a turned up casing in which the elastic or string is passed through.

Chalk -   Used to temporarily mark fabric for buttonholes, darts, diamonds,  pleats and other cutting or constructing lines and designs. 

Clapper- A pressing tool that is a flat wooden block.  It is used to create serious creases.  After using an iron, the pressing with a clapper flattens the area while drawing the heat out of it, "setting" it in place.

Clean finish -     Finishing a seam with zig-zag stitching, turning under and pressing, pinking shears, etc. Gives the seam a cleaner looking finish. 

Clipping - Cutting into the seam allowance so the fabric lays flat.

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